The title
is Pulaar for ‘not something’ which they interpret as ‘not the same’, and my
purpose for writing is because I would like to write a bit here on some of the
differences between cultures and regions. Where I have grown up and the social
normalities and cultural subtleties that surrounded me for the initial part of
my life are not now the ones that accompany me on my daily adventures in this
environment where I presently reside.
Prior
to moving here to this West African country of Senegal I attempted to refrain
from any preconceptions of what my new environment might be like. I tried to
look at the situation economically. Why would I put energy into imagining
something which was, in all likelihood, only sitting on the edges of
possibility to accurately perceive without yet experiencing? Although try as I
might some notions did creep into my mind prior to the relocation, but I
remember little of them now because the solidity of the reality pushes out the preconceptions
due to their misty and vague nature.
Some interesting
oddities of Pulaar are how they count money. Each increment is multiplied by 5.
Buying an item that is worth 500cfca results in the shopkeeper asking for 100,
and similarly 200 would be stated for an object costing 1000cfca. As one can
imagine translating the numbers of a new language into their own familiar
language and then multiplying and then translating back is a hassle and double so
when anything purchased from a vendor that doesn’t have a permanent stand or building
should be bargained over. This means that multiple numbers are being thrown
around and will need to be multiplied in order to keep track of the bargain
price each step of the way. The exceedingly nice thing about this region is that
everything is very inexpensive. Typically the only thing I could want to buy is
food and I can only really do that when at my road town 7km from my village. Most singular
food items are less than 200cfca and larger quantities are still less than
800cfca. The transfer rate for fcfa and American dollar is 450cfca to 1 dollar.
So I can buy a nice breakfast of a bean and egg sandwich with mayonnaise and a
local tea which I enjoy, called kinkilliba, for about 80 cents American. The
bigger cities have prices which run more along the lines of a modern European
or American city.
The language of Pulaar also has some interesting grammatical oddities. Articles, the a/an, for English are of 23 different varieties in Pulaar. The article for sun in Pulaar is different than the article for body. The sun = naange nge and the body is bandu ndu. The repetitive ending is often times the article but not always. Since some words do not follow the 'just use the ending' rule you actually have to know what the article is for every noun if you want to say it correctly. One specifically annoying component of the language is that almost every noun has a singular form and a plural form that is so different it is unrecognizable. This results in the necessity that one must learn almost twice as much vocabulary for Pulaar as one would for English. Here are some examples; Dog/dogs = Rawandu/dawaadi, Week/weeks = yontere/jonte, Man/men = gorko/worbe, woman/women = debbo/rowbe. Some words need only to have ji added, such as baby/babies = bobo/boboji, but mostly this applies to words derived from a foreign language; ie. bebe-bobo.
The language of Pulaar also has some interesting grammatical oddities. Articles, the a/an, for English are of 23 different varieties in Pulaar. The article for sun in Pulaar is different than the article for body. The sun = naange nge and the body is bandu ndu. The repetitive ending is often times the article but not always. Since some words do not follow the 'just use the ending' rule you actually have to know what the article is for every noun if you want to say it correctly. One specifically annoying component of the language is that almost every noun has a singular form and a plural form that is so different it is unrecognizable. This results in the necessity that one must learn almost twice as much vocabulary for Pulaar as one would for English. Here are some examples; Dog/dogs = Rawandu/dawaadi, Week/weeks = yontere/jonte, Man/men = gorko/worbe, woman/women = debbo/rowbe. Some words need only to have ji added, such as baby/babies = bobo/boboji, but mostly this applies to words derived from a foreign language; ie. bebe-bobo.
A
rather peculiar sight in Senegal is the affectionate touching and hand holding
that takes place between members of the same sex. When viewed in the light that
homosexuality is illegal in this country it makes the subject quite thought
provoking. Do people feel comfortable demonstrating affection because they know
that anything more is forbidden so any attention is purely platonic, or did the
high degree of same sex affection arise separately from the law forbidding only
homosexuality? A common sight in this country is for young men to be walking
down the street holding hands. Men that would, in America, be almost defiantly
opposed to the slightest implication of any homosexual behavior on their
behalf. Watching these events are one thing but you have to remember that I
live here now and for a time, and that anything the locals do among themselves
they will also perceive as perfectly acceptable to do with me. So often among
children and young males they will try to hold hands with me or be otherwise
very close physically and due to my American notions I often do not find these
interactions comfortable. I think this is less because of the homosexual
perception and more that I am unaccustomed to anyone touching me at all so it
feels odd when anyone does.
On the
note of human interactions hospitality and neighborly conduct is perceived vastly
differently here than in America. Multiple times I have been asked by people I
don’t know to come and eat with them while just walking down the road. You
might pass this off as an unusual greeting that lacked true intent but in
reality either of those times I could have accepted and walked into a random person’s
compound and eaten a meal with their family. One of the five tenants of Islam
is to give alms which can be done in the form of food or money for the poor.
But the actions I have observed thus far have been more than the commands of
their theistic ideologies. People here are willing to share everything they
have with complete strangers. I’ve heard many stories of other volunteers being
stranded in a strange place for a night and a simple question of ‘hey can you
help me out tonight?’ led to a bed and warm meal from a stranger. I know that
some families have hardly enough for themselves but walking around anywhere
near mealtime means you will be bombarded by the request to come and eat "Ar nyam". The
concept is odd because in America we think that if anyone tries to share then
you attract individuals that would rather leech on the generous than generate anything. I often wonder what the real percentage of leeches would be if
America tried this sharing mentality.
A most
interesting part about living in any part of the world that isn't America is
that so many people are bilingual or more multilingual than 2 or 3. Many people
here know 3 languages and parts of several others. I know my perceptions upon
arriving here is that to be taught only one language almost cripples an
individual. I’m trying to pick up Pulaar to use in my village and French to use
in the bigger cities that speak primarily Wolof and French, but at my age the
brain is less adept at ingesting a new language. Honestly it seems my brain is
only programmed to work in one language while my new neighbors are more flexible.
One of the most difficult things I have run into is when someone says a
sentence to me and one word is in butchered English or French (of which I only
know a tiny amount). My brain is working so hard to try and focus on all the Pulaar
words I know that partially misspoken English words just kill my understanding
of the whole sentence. After these experiences I want my kid/s to be bilingual
at least, hopefully I’ll be adept enough with French eventually to teach them
myself. Funny tidbit one of the gentlemen from my group has lived his whole
life in France and made it into the American Peace Corps only because his
mother is American and he is in possession of dual citizenship. The thing I was
proud of is that he has several times complimented my accent when I attempt French
within his hearing.
I guess
the last little fun differential I shall give you all for now is public
transportation. If you want to go somewhere you first get to the ‘garage’ of
the city you are in. To get to the garage you just wait on the side of the road
for a taxi and tell it to take you to the garage, or you walk. When there you
find a vehicle headed to your destination. There are tons of seven passenger
cars that travel faster but are more expensive than the slower modes. These
sept-places as they are called run from the departure to destination typically
without stopping to pick up passengers. There are 15-24 passenger vans that depart
and pick up anyone on the side of the road who flags it down before it is full
and they get off whenever they want. This makes most journeys on them quite
slow as you tend to stop frequently. There are also a handful of night busses
that are what you would consider a standard concord coach in America and they
run mostly at night but will run during the day as well. They are on the
expensive side but quite comfortable in comparison to the other means of
transport. If you are out in the middle of nowhere and desire transportation
you must find a main road and wait for one of the busses to drive by and just
flag it down and tell them your destination. Also bags that you do not intend
to keep on your lap (which may be several based on how lightly you travel) you
need to bargain for the price of carrying the bag on top of the vehicle or in a
trunk space. This is because the driver will keep an eye on bags that have been
paid for to ensure that they are not stolen. Lastly each vehicle looks as if it had set in a junkyard for 10 years before the owner decided to try and drive it. Finding a taxi with a non-broken windshield is somewhat of a rarity and all passengers are in constant peril of flat tires, engine failure, or some form of accident due to the utter lack of both road rules and any formalized driving education. Fun times though.
Here
are some random fun facts that didn’t quite require a full paragraph. People
here do not use toilet paper. They keep water near the bathroom and use the
left hand and water to rinse. I prefer keeping a bar of soap VERY close to my
bathroom, being a literal hole in the ground. Some more fancy places
actually have a porcelain ‘turkish’ toilet, basically a fancy hole in the
ground that sorta flushes if water goes down it and has a place for you to
stand. As the left hand is often… ‘unclean’ it is impolite to hand or accept
anything to anyone with that hand. Similarly it is extremely impolite to eat
with one’s left hand. People here eat with their right hand out of a large community
bowl. Meals are prepared to a texture that can be scooped and formed into a
ball then placed in the mouth. Typically 3-12 people sit around each bowl all
eating at the same time. Greetings are also another difference. It is very
impolite to refrain from greeting most people in a formal setting. Obviously
this is non-applicable when walking down a crowded city street but if you walk into a shopkeepers or intend
to speak with someone or pass by a person whom you see regularly they expect a
small exchange of words before you depart or attempt to talk business with
them.
Well that’s
some of the things that come to mind for interesting things and I know I’m
forgetting a load of them but I’ll have time to communicate them later. Good
evening ya’ll.